Sunday, May 29, 2011

Paris: First Impressions

It been such a long time my dear bloggy friends, and I am sorry to have ignored you.

Preparing and making this journey has been more of a challenge than I was expecting. My energy is rather low, and as is my usual pattern, at such times I feel a preference to withdraw from social contact as it is especially tiring.

St Chapelle

Nevertheless, here I am in the beautiful city of Paris. The weather is divinely sunny (around 22 deg C during the day, with crisp cool nights down to the low teens). I am surrounded by (even staying in) buildings older than any in Australia.

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The Marais (the area where we are staying) is renowned as the home of art galleries and studios for fashion designers and all manner of artists. Not to mention the best creperie in Paris! (Well, ok, I did mention it!)

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The clothes in the shop windows are…beautiful. Gorgeous, natural fabrics like silk, linen, cotton woven more thinly than we ever see in Australia – how do the French get away with that crushed linen look so successfully? I can’t understand why the clothes in Australian shops turn to synthetic fibres. Hot in summer, cold in winter, what is their use? I know, its the no-iron thing, but I recommend we just get over that!

So far we have wandered (quite far) without any particular aim, except perhaps to locate a patisserie or fromagerie (that’s an entire shop devoted to cheese!). I know there is no such thing in Brisbane, although there is one in Maleny and one in Melbourne, both being much smaller affairs, and a part of other foodie businesses.

macaroons

About a two or three minute walk away is the amazing artists book shop Librairie Florence Loewy. I visited this shop when I was in Paris in 2008, but I confess to being rather overwhelmed then. This time I settled in for a long stay and scoured the shelves until my legs were aching. No purchases – yet! (but the shop is close by!)

When we booked our apartment here in Rue de Saintonge, I knew how close we would be to Florence Loewy. But I did not know that there would be a bookbinder’s studio in my street (how quickly I’ve claimed ownership!).

On one of my first days here, I was stepping carefully along the narrow footpath when my eye fell on a wall of boxes, covered in beautiful fabrics. Along the entire length of the opposite wall, stretched a work bench and five or six men and women bent over papers and board. I looked through the window at the studio, a workshop obviously in progress. There was a book press close by the glass of the window, and another press further back. The entire space seemed to be less than 2 metres by 4 metres, such a hive of activity. I longed to go in!! But I could see that the middle of a workshop was not the best time for an approach with my faltering, limited French.

Back at the apartment I found the website for the studio – and yes, I was right. Celia Malouvier is a bookbinder with wonderful credentials, nearly 30 years experience, who runs workshops, speaks English, in my street – what to do?

So far, I haven’t plucked up the courage to go into speak to Mme Malouvier, mostly because I’m not sure what I want. But you can be sure, at the very least I will go in and say hello.

Sneaking-a-peek-from-Tuilleries

E-BOOK

Before I say “au revoir” and hit the cobbled streets again I wanted to tell you about the ebook I mentioned before I left home. I had planned to post this pretty-much live from whatever I recorded on location, whether photo, audio or video. Unfortunately, I don’t really have the energy to devote to the project. I still think it is a great concept and I am gathering a lot of information towards a book (in fact, maybe a few). I just feel that to do the concept justice would mean devoting all my energy to it and I am enjoying visiting the art galleries, book and clothes shops, flea markets… well, you get the idea.

Instead, I’ll just be posting about the art, especially artists books that I am seeing, and I hope you will enjoy that!

the-orange-curtains

11 comments:

  1. Oh, how wonderful! First, that you are in Paris (please kiss the ground for me...it's been 40 years!).
    And, more importantly, that you have made such a long journey and are not too shattered to enjoy things.
    Love the "orange curtains" photo, by the way!
    Stay well.

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  2. oooo amanda! I'm drooling - I do hope your energy levels remain high enough for you to enjoy the trip (and to post more gorgeous pics and tales!!!)

    I have always wanted to visit france (and scotland - homes of my great grandmother- scotland and great-great grandparents - south france.....)

    ahh maybe one day (or maybe not....)

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  3. Hi Amanda
    Good to read your blog parisienne - you have to go and say 'allo' to Celia - and enjoy your holiday, it sounds busy so far!
    nice pics too,
    love Claire

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  4. Oh how lovely for you ....Id love to see Paris again. You're so much nearer but yet so far. Maybe if I go to the seaside today and stand ona box and wave you'll see me :O)

    By the way, I know the french can be terribly rude but are you SURE you're staying in the 'Rude' de Saintonge (take a look !) ??? and are you staying here

    http://www.halldis.com/search/ad.action?city=paris&aid=956&bid=halldis ?

    A bientot, cheri....enjoy :O) x

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  5. Hello Amanda...it's so great to think of you in Paris. I wish your energy was higher, but it sounds like you're making the best of what you have to work with! Loved the links, as I'm not familiar with either place. I hope I told you about Relma, around the corner from Place St Michel. It is the best and most gorgeous bookmaking supplier going: http://www.relma.fr/pages/17achome.html There is also this library, across the river from the Louvre, just at one end of the Pont des Arts at the left corner of the Academie Fran├žaise. It is well worth a visit: http://www.bibliotheque-mazarine.fr/ Have a great visit and keep us blogging friends au courant!

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  6. yes it sounds like a lovely trip; and how well placed you are! hope you continue to enjoy your stay.

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  7. Have fun Amanda! Paris can only be restorative... Sara x

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  9. Thank you all for your comments, & welcome Claire for your first one here.Its so good to be in touch with you all again!
    Di: don't know if I can kiss the ground for you - it's a bit too dirty for me, but I'll take some photos of the cobbles, if that helps!
    Ronnie: I love both Scotland AND France. If you can't make it, I'm happy to do your visiting for you!
    Claire: the best ones are processed through Instagram on my iPhone. And of course the great subject matter really helps.
    Cusp: I think you'd need a very BIG box!
    MC: I definitely have Relma on my list and am becoming quite impatient to schedule my visit (sans husband, I think would be best!) I did not know about the Bibliotheque Mazararine - so thank-you.
    Abigail - yes it's a great location!
    Sara- you are absolutely right - restorative and SO inspiring. I've been thinking about a book about the stairwell of the building I'm staying in. I mean, the STAIRWELL!

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  10. Paris, you lucky thing! It's just a hop from here but at the moment beyond what's possible for me. One day! And in the meantime I'll be following your footsteps. Enjoy! And don't put any pressure on yourself, in anyway. It's just there for you to discover, in your own time, your own way.

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